High in calcium, phosphorous and sulphur. OK to compost in hot or cold heap as they decompose rapidly. Great too in a wormery.
Bamboo leaves. Green for nitrogen. Dried for carbon.
Shred leaves, whether green or dried. You might have too much at a time to expect the worms to process it but some of it would be a good bedding material. Great in a hot or cold heap.
Bamboo stems/roots.
Noxious weeds. Not suitable to compost.
Bark. For carbon.
Suitable for hot or cold compost heap. Ensure wood is not treated with chemicals. Apply sparingly in very thin layers and use a lot of nitrogen. Avoid bark from conifers (soft woods).
Beer and brewing wastes. For nitrogen.
Suitable for hot or cold heaps. Try it in the wormery if you want to, in small quantities. Could also just throw on the garden, lawn or under a tree.
Bird cage cleanings. For nitrogen.
Small amounts will help to activate a compost. Large amounts can get very hot. Not suitable for a wormery on account of the heat it generates.
Black walnuts. Debatable.
These plants have evolved highly aggressive chemical warfare with which to compete with their neighbours. They produce a toxin called juglone, which destroys plants within metres of them. Juglone will break down eventually (it may take 2 years) so if you compost with any part of the Black Walnut you would be wise not to spread it out until weeds start to grow out of the compost (indicating that the juglone has bio-degraded).
Blood and bone. For nitrogen.
An easy way to inject nitrogen into your compost heap.
Bracken ferns.
OK in a hot or cold heap. Worms might struggle with these - best not to.
Bread.
OK for compost or wormery but may attract rodents if left uncovered.
Butter (rancid).
OK in a hot or cold heap or wormery in small quantities, but it is inadvisable to add in large quantities, like whole blocks. See fat.
Wormeries 
Copyright Westcountry Worms 2006