M
Magazine paper.
Probably not suitable to compost. Inks used during printing tend to be of metallic origin. OK if printed with vegetable based inks. Check with the publisher if in doubt.
Manures. For nitrogen.
Highest in nitrogen when fresh. Suitable to compost in hot and cold heaps where it helps to activate a compost. The heat given off by many bird manures during decay tends to be too high for a wormery.
Mayonnaise.
Only likely to be available for composting in small amounts so no need to worry about the fat or vinegar.
Meat and bones.
Bones won't break down in a hurry and will probably still be intact when you go to use the compost. Meat will break down but it may stink and attract flies and possibly rodents. It is up to you really, we don't waste much meat but have found that the occasional meat trimmings or leftovers compost down fine. Remember to cover the compost or wormery with plenty of dry stuff to repel the flies.
Milk.
OK in a compost bin in the proportions that an ordinary household will generate.
N
Newspaper. For carbon.
Suitable for hot or cold heaps and wormeries. Very high carbon so needs plenty of nitrogen to compensate. Shred to facilitate mixing and avoid matting.
Nut shells. For carbon.
Depending on the nut, shells will break down to varying degrees. Macadamia nut shells will finish breaking down sometime during the next geological period and coconut shells several eons after that.. Peanut shells will break down the quickest. Even though they take a long time to break down there is no reason really why you can't put them in the compost, so what if there are a few nut shells in your compost when you spread it out on the garden! Worms will struggle!
O
Office paper waste. For carbon.
Suitable for hot and cold compost heaps or as wormery bedding. Great if you can access a source of it as it comes pre-shredded. Try your local school, if they can off load this waste for free you will be doing them, as well as yourself, a favour.
Oil.
Oil has a tendency to coat compost particles, blocking out the air in the process. This may lead to the compost turning sour or anaerobic and smelling bad. Small amounts of oil, however, shouldn't present a problem. If disposing of deep frying oil or more than a few tablespoons at one time, it is a better idea to bury it. See fat.
Onion peel. For nitrogen.
See apple peels and cores.
P
Pasta. For carbon.
OK in a hot or cold compost or wormery but may attract rodents.
Peanut butter.
Mainly fat but OK for a hot or cold heap or wormery in the small amounts likely to be generated at home.
Pear peelings. For nitrogen.
See apple peels and cores.
Pea shells.
For nitrogen. See apple peels and cores.
Pea straw. For carbon.
OK in a hot or cold heap or wormery. Adds nitrogen if green.
Pet food.
See meat and bones.
Pigeon droppings. For nitrogen.
Small amounts will help to activate a compost, if you can be bothered to scrape it off some public sculpture. Large amounts can get very hot. Not suitable in a wormery.
Pineapple tops and peel. For nitrogen.
See apple peels and cores.
Pine needles. For carbon.
Quite high in carbon and tend to be acidic so will take time to compost down and will need to be teamed up with a good nitrogen source. Might be a good ingredient to team with a little wood ash which is alkaline.
Pita crusts.
See bread
Pizza crusts.
See bread.
Potato peelings. For nitrogen.
See apple peels and cores.
Prunings. For nitrogen.
Suitable for hot or cold compost heaps. Needs to be shredded and shouldn't include ivy or other nuisance plants that propagate freely from nodes, unless you really like them!
Pumpkin skins and seeds. For nitrogen.
See apple peels and cores. |
Wormeries 
Copyright Westcountry Worms 2006